Food and Wine

RESTAURANTS

Do not expect to find a restaurant where locals eat. There are no such places. Locals eat at home. So, the only way to acquaint your tastebuds with real local cuisine is to be invited to someone‘s house. The second best thing is to visit few good konobas (a rustic-style place serving traditional food). Another option is to visit some of the local gastronomic events happening throughout the summer.

Recommending a restaurant is quite difficult but we would suggest konoba Toni. In our opinion it is the best place on this side of the island. They serve meat and fish dishes. The fish is freshly caught each day near Postira. If you prefer meat, you can try peka, mixed meat cooked under hot ash, but be sure to call them in advance so it is ready when you arrive, as it takes a while to prepare. There are also a few specialties like Vitalac (various skewered entrails grilled on a wood grill) or spit-roasted lamb. Their Hrapačuša cake is a great finishing touch.

Another option is konoba Kopačina in Donji Humac ("Lower hill"). Just like in konoba Toni, at the Kopačina konoba you can also try peka, vitalac or spit roasted-lamb. If you plan on going there, we would suggest calling them and making a reservation. It is located away from the sea and it is a good option if you like to combine dinner with a walk. It is in opposite direction from Supetar (when you reach the main road). On the way there you can stop in Ložišće and Nerežišće. There is a striking church tower in Ložišće and you can walk around the town center from there. After Ložišće you have to turn left and continue towards Dračevica and Nerežišće. You will find a few old stone quarries on the way towards Nerežišće. When you reach Nerežišće there are a few things to see before you continue to Donji Humac (The center of Nerežišće is a few minutes away from the main road). In Nerežišće you can stop at the main square. There you will see a small church with a funny pine tree growing from the roof (). Also, you can drive toward "Kolac," a nice stone arch close to Nerežišće. You will see the road directions for it. It’s nothing spectacular, but it’s a nice walk. It will have a good effect on your appetite. The drive towards Donji Humac is 30 minutes and for the rest of the activities you will need a little bit more than one hour. This is something that you should plan for the late afternoon otherwise it might be too hot out.

If you decide to visit Bol and Zlatni rat, () on the way towards Bol there is konoba Tomic. This one is in Gornji Humac (do not mix Donji Humac (meaning "Lower hill") with Gornji Humac (meaning "Upper hill"). This one is a little bit further away from Bobovisce (so call to check if it’s open).

Finally, an interesting gastronomic experience is the livestock show at Gažul, a small shepherds’ village close to Vidova Gora. Some people might find this too naturalistic but this is still not a touristic attraction and if you like real grilled lamb and cheese this is the best place.

FOOD MARKETS

When it comes to food, the people of Dalmatia like to have theirs simple, fresh and grown locally. And trust us, it tastes great. Beside few larger supermarkets (Tommy, Lidl), there is no better place to get groceries than the small local farmer’s market and fish market, or as locals call them, pazar (Pah-zar) and peškarija (pesh kah ria). They are located close to the gas station and ferry port.

The fish market opens early, with the morning catch coming in before 8:00, so set an alarm clock if you want the best pieces to end up on your grill. Locals usually prefer cheaper, smaller fish like sardines, anchovies, squid, mackerels and mullets.

Feeling a bit nervous about buying fresh fish? To be sure that it is fresh, just look for shiny scales, clear eyes, bright red gills and firm flesh. After buying it, you will have to gut it. Do that close to the sea and feed the seagulls. They will appreciate it.

There is also a small store in Bobovišće where you can buy basics. You can even ask them to deliver your order.

WINE AND WINERIES

In Dalmatia, Greeks and Romans first started growing wine, and Croatians continue the tradition, making very little improvements. So, do not expect much. Unfortunately most locals do not produce good wine. However, there are a few exceptionally good wineries. Senjković winery on Brač, Plenković winery and Plančić winery on the island of Hvar, and of course wineries from Korcula with autochthonous varieties Pošip and Rukatac.

The most important Croatian autochthonous variety is Plavac Mali. The best high quality Plavac wines originate from Dingač and Postup locations of the Pelješac peninsula. They are usually named after the location where they’re grown. Pošip is a white grape variety grown almost exclusively found on the Dalmatian coast, and is the most grown variety on the island of Korčula, with the prime grapes grown in the appellation of Čara valley. Pošip grape is also used for drying in order to make the popular Dalmatian prošek dessert wine.

Orahovica (Walnut Liqueur) is a sticky dark brown liqueur made from unripe green walnuts. After steeping in spirit, the walnuts are removed and the now-black alcohol is mixed with simple syrup. Nocino has an aromatic but bittersweet flavor. It may be homemade; villages and even individual families often have their own recipes, including different additions like cinnamon or clove.